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2005.03.10

マカオ、リスボンの面影

実は、相当マカオが気に入った。
なんというか、下町くささ、田舎くささがたまらなく気に入ったのだ。
確かにパチンコ屋みたいなネオンがきらめくカジノがあったり、高層住宅ビルも建っているが、路地に残る下町くささが素朴で、雑多な中でもほっと落ち着く街だった。

ただ、天気にはあまり恵まれなかった。
観光名所の聖ポール天主堂跡のファサードも、沢木光太郎の「天涯」 で見て想像していたような青空をバックにした壮麗さというより、曇り空に溶け込む遺跡のようだった。
そして手前には、旧正月の飾りつけが。この中華風と西洋風の折衷。違和もなくそこに。
0310macau

返還前を知らないが、現在のマカオの居住者はほとんど中国人だろうが、大陸と違って人が穏やかなように思われた。また、都会的で華やかな香港とも違う。
確かについ数年前まで、西洋の国ポルトガル領だったのだから。

学校があったり、民家がある道を抜けて「モンテの砦」まで急な坂道を上る。どことなくポルトガル・リスボンのアルファマ地区にある公園を思い出させた。似たような石垣と大砲がおいてある公園だ。
大学生のとき、旅の途中リスボンでぼんやりしていたのだがそのときよく行った。街を見下ろしたり、人を眺めたり。
周囲にびっしりと広がる下町もリスボンに近い。
そういえばあの街も洗濯を外にひらひら干していた。

雨もあってあまり動きまわれなかったが、マカオは路地から路地へ散歩をしたい街だった。

「天涯」を久しぶりに開けてみたら「Macau, Portugul」という記載になっていた。発行年は1997。そう、私がこれを買ったころはまだ返還されていなかったのだ。

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ホントに、おかしい、この写真・・・
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